Ask Dr Heather

What is the best skincare regime?

Anon, Whenuapai.

Skincare is complex.  There is a lot of noise in the market with zero regulation.  Most of us start (and often continue) a very basic regime inspired by supermarket shelves, television adverts and people we know.  I myself have been victim of using all the no-no things including face cloths, soap and the dreaded St Ives Apricot Scrub. 

A good regime consists of a few basics.  Firstly, a pH balanced cleanser should be used to gently cleanse the skin without compromising the naturally acidic skin barrier.  It doesn’t really matter what product you use if the pH is balanced, however be weary of marketing ploys such as foam (foam does not equal better cleaning) and addition of ingredients such a hyaluronic acid as they are washed away during the cleansing process.

After cleansing, application of an antioxidant serum is a great idea.  Vitamin C is a fantastic option for daytime as it is great for environmental protection, minimising pigmentation and encouraging collagen production.  A good alternative for day (or nighttime) is Vitamin B, which helps minimise wrinkles, improve skin tone and also acts to enhance collagen production.

Another great serum for nighttime is the famous Vitamin A, AKA, retinol.  The hero ingredient to any skincare regime, this powerful micro-nutrient speeds up skin cell turnover, minimises pigmentation, reduces acne, stimulates collagen production and diminishes wrinkles.  Care must be taken when starting retinol however as it can cause skin irritation, so staggering its use initially and slowly building to nightly application is recommended.  Many products on the market claim to contain retinol, however shop around as some instead contain very weak retinoid esters (retinyl palmitate, retinyl acetate and retinyl linoleate), that take many years of consistent use to have effect. 

On top of serums, one should then apply a quality moisturiser that suits your skin type.  Dry skin needs thicker moisturisers, whereas oily skin prefers oil-free concoctions.  Choose something that smells and feels good and be sure to also apply it on the neck and backs of the hands as these areas are often neglected and eventually become telltale signs of a person’s true age (you’ll start noticing those celebrity close-ups now).

Finally, during the day don’t forget SPF!  Super important to minimise ageing as the harsh ultraviolet rays from the sun (on cloudy and clear days) will undo all the good work you do with your skincare regime.  Just be sure to pick a product that you like that doesn’t make you look and feel like a greaseball. 

Everyone can benefit from a good skincare regime; the key is to understand the basics and resist marketing tactics by big brands.  A good rule of thumb is if it’s advertised in mainstream media, it probably isn’t worth your time (and money) as quality products don’t need big advertisements to demonstrate their worth.

Dr Heather Anderson is a Cosmetic Medicine and Urgent Care/Emergency Doctor who practises in her own clinic at ALLOR Cosmetic Medicine in Whenuapai.  If you have a question for Dr Heather you'd like answered anonymously in the magazine, please email askdrheather@allor.co.nz.